Sewing A Veracruz Folklorico Costume
Hello Readers!
The Covid19 quarantine has allowed me to stay home and rest during my first trimester of pregnancy. It has been an unexpected “silver lining” to this otherwise awful situation.
The Covid19 quarantine has allowed me to stay home and rest during my first trimester of pregnancy. It has been an unexpected “silver lining” to this otherwise awful situation.
During the periods I am not napping, my quarantine time has been taken up with lots of of cooking, cleaning, and sewing!
One of the projects I have been working on is a Mexican Folk Dance costume!
I have danced Baile (Ballet) Folklorico since I was four, and have always loved the traditional dresses for each Mexican state/region.
I have always wanted to try my hand at creating a design.
Finally, after years of dreaming, I started making my own costume for the state of Veracruz.
Veracruz
Female Veracruz dancers are easily spotted because their costumes are usually solid white with a black apron. The flowers that typically decorate their aprons are roses (red roses being a popular choice).
Here are some classic Veracruz dresses (link).
Dresses are usually made from organza, chiffon, or lace (with solid white linings or slips of course).
Many groups have created more colorful versions of Veracruz costumes as shown below.
(photo uploaded by Laura Moreno on Pinterest-no link found)
The first stage in construction was drafting the skirt pattern. This is pretty straight forward. Most Folklorico skirts are made from two circle skirts.
Due to yardage width, my skirt was made from 4 half circles. I cut 4 halves out of both fabrics (hung the satin pieces overnight and trimmed the bottoms even) and then basted the mesh onto the satin.
Below is one set of basted halves.
One of the projects I have been working on is a Mexican Folk Dance costume!
I have danced Baile (Ballet) Folklorico since I was four, and have always loved the traditional dresses for each Mexican state/region.
I have always wanted to try my hand at creating a design.
Finally, after years of dreaming, I started making my own costume for the state of Veracruz.
Veracruz
Female Veracruz dancers are easily spotted because their costumes are usually solid white with a black apron. The flowers that typically decorate their aprons are roses (red roses being a popular choice).
Here are some classic Veracruz dresses (link).
Dresses are usually made from organza, chiffon, or lace (with solid white linings or slips of course).
Many groups have created more colorful versions of Veracruz costumes as shown below.
(photo uploaded by Laura Moreno on Pinterest-no link found)
For my design I wanted a soft color that would be distinct from pure white, but not bright neon.
My husband purchased a beautiful embroidered and sequined mesh for my Christmas gift this year. I used a medium weight white satin to flatline the mesh for stability reasons.
Due to yardage width, my skirt was made from 4 half circles. I cut 4 halves out of both fabrics (hung the satin pieces overnight and trimmed the bottoms even) and then basted the mesh onto the satin.
Below is one set of basted halves.
I finished all edges with a serger and sewed the seams up. I added waist ties to the top.
Next I played around with making the ruffle! I used the beautiful scalloped edge from the mesh as one layer. I also wanted a softer, floaty fabric on the ruffle.
My ruffle ended up being three layers thick: Mesh, Chiffon, and a lightweight lining.
I am not going to lie, this was the toughest Folklorico skirt I have yet made. Sewing with mesh is not easy. It is also NOT a typical fabric choice for Veracruz or most other states. However, I am glad I persevered, because I think it turned out well in the end.
Somewhere in the midst of skirt construction I took a break to make the apron. I found a velvet appliqué mesh that took my breath away! I flatlined it with cheap black fabric for stability.
I then hand sewed some 3-D flower appliqués onto the front before adding lace and backing it with solid velvet. A waistband finished it off.
Ta-da!
The blouse was the final pattern piece to draft. I also made a mock-up since I have never made this type of blouse before.
I used scrap blue fabric shown below. It actually kinda matched!
I tweaked the pattern and set to work sewing the final blouse.
The final blouse front and back were made from chiffon lined with a soft eyelet cotton. The shawl part was made from lace with a lace and chiffon ruffle. The shawl is attached at the neckline so that it is one piece.
I added lots of lace trim and blue ribbon as well to the blouse as well.
The headpiece was fun! I wanted it pretty big which is why the braid is thick.
I am by no means an expert at making headpieces, but am fairly happy with how this turned out!
This Veracruz ensemble is still not 100% finished as there are details which need to be finished and added. Eventually I will do a post showing the jewelry and fan that will round this costume out. I still need to find a classic cameo brooch for the blouse as well!
I am not going to lie, this was the toughest Folklorico skirt I have yet made. Sewing with mesh is not easy. It is also NOT a typical fabric choice for Veracruz or most other states. However, I am glad I persevered, because I think it turned out well in the end.
Somewhere in the midst of skirt construction I took a break to make the apron. I found a velvet appliqué mesh that took my breath away! I flatlined it with cheap black fabric for stability.
I then hand sewed some 3-D flower appliqués onto the front before adding lace and backing it with solid velvet. A waistband finished it off.
Ta-da!
The blouse was the final pattern piece to draft. I also made a mock-up since I have never made this type of blouse before.
I used scrap blue fabric shown below. It actually kinda matched!
I tweaked the pattern and set to work sewing the final blouse.
The final blouse front and back were made from chiffon lined with a soft eyelet cotton. The shawl part was made from lace with a lace and chiffon ruffle. The shawl is attached at the neckline so that it is one piece.
I added lots of lace trim and blue ribbon as well to the blouse as well.
The headpiece was fun! I wanted it pretty big which is why the braid is thick.
I am by no means an expert at making headpieces, but am fairly happy with how this turned out!
This Veracruz ensemble is still not 100% finished as there are details which need to be finished and added. Eventually I will do a post showing the jewelry and fan that will round this costume out. I still need to find a classic cameo brooch for the blouse as well!
I hope you enjoyed this post! I have spent tens upon tens of hours on this dress and poured my heart into it.
With love,
Lexi
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